Eye of Modok

 
Blysse and Ellie play in front of the smog shrouded Bird’s Nest

Things are finally back to “normal” in the Chinese capital, including the return of some things that are not particularly welcomed.  Here are the top 10 signs that the Olympics and Paralympics are truly over:

1. Security checks have stopped.  I was very pleasantly surprised when I went into Terminal 3 the other day and did not have to submit to a security check simply to enter the terminal.  Likewise, security check points throughout the city have been abandoned, and the black-clad Olympic SWAT force has vanished.  Yeah!

2. Road closures have re-opened.  Many sections of the city which were cordoned off have now re-opened, making it much easier to get around in some cases.

3. Restaurants and clubs are back open. Nearly all of the venues that were closed before the Olympics are open again, except those unfortunate enough not to have survived the forced closure.

4. Al Fresco dining on streets has resumed.   I didn’t really understand why they had to suspend outdoor dining on the streets throughout the games, but they did.  Well, now you can enjoy again, except that the weather has just taken a turn and you will likely be enjoying your latte in the cold rain.

5. Street vendors are back! Just in time for sweet hot yams and tasty lamb skewers!  Yummm.

6. The traffic ban has been lifted.  The streets are back to their pre-Olympic congestion levels after the even/odd liscense plate ban has been lifted.  A lot of people are unhappy about this, and apparently the government is looking at re-instating a similar rule, though not likely as strict.

7. Smog is back with a vengeance!  As a result of the the lift in all of the pollution cutting measures leading up to the Olympics, we are all reminded of just how noxious the air in Beijing really is.

8. DVDs are on sale again! DVD stores are all gradually opening, though their inventory of illegal DVDs certainly leaves a lot to be desired.  No doubt the selection will improve in short order.

9.  Lady Bars are back!  Just when I thought I would never have to be annoyed by another Lady Bar purveyor, they are back in force, and if you are a single man walking anywhere near Sanlitun after 5pm you are likely to accosted every ten steps by someone hoping you are stupid or naive enough to fall into their trap, willfully oblivious to the fact that if you just gave a disgusted look at the last invitation, they are likely to receive a similar reaction.

10. Pushers are back! Perhaps most telling of a relaxation in the city are the purveyors of all things  illicit that roam the streets from Gongti to Sanlitun, nearly as numerous as the Lady Bar pushers, though somehow less annoying as they feel the need to be at least somewhat discreet.

Olympic security forces training in Qinghuandao

Though the Chinese media will surely present the image of a city enraptured with Olympic Spirit to the rest of China, and less importantly, to the world, there may very well be far more frowns on citizen’s faces throughout the long-anticipated Beijing Olympiad than all the euphoric smiles displayed incessantly on every TV screen, in every bus, on every train, in every elevator, and on every huge screen throughout the city combined. To be sure, every victorious moment will be repeated ad infinitum in a media frenzy likely to be second only to that of the recent tragic Sichuan earthquakes. If Liu Xiang manages to overcome what may well be the heaviest Olympic pressure ever felt by any single individual and clinches gold, the glorious moment will surely become the symbol of China’s greatness for a generation. To be sure, the Beijing Olympics are a great source of national pride for the whole of China! So, what does it matter if a few people are inconvenienced in the process? With the imminent arrival of the games in Beijing, the inconveniences are mounting daily, along with unhappy faces.

Among the first to feel the crunch were many of China’s foreign residents who suddenly found that due to new visa restrictions they had to return to their home country to apply for a new visa, which they very likely wouldn’t get. At least not the one-year multiple entry visa they were used to. Even famous celebrities like Canadian Dashan were not immune, a fact which he reportedly lamented after an unexpected trip back to Canada when his visa renewal was denied in Korea.

The Olympics are no longer touted as an opportunity to host the world. In fact, due to visa restrictions and heightened security measures, hotels throughout China are reporting the worst occupancy rates since SARS. Journalists who have been China regulars for years have suddenly found out that they are not invited to the party, seemingly along with anyone else who has ever had an unkind word to say about the current regime. In fact, it seems that this is likely to be one fancy part in which the world is sent invitations and then told after they RSVP that they are not actually able to attend.

From July 1st, many small shop and restaurant owners felt the heat as they were informed that there shops were to be closed “for security reasons” until September. Nearly every shop near subway stations and Olympic venues that no doubt anticipated high profits during the season were disappointed to find that they would instead lose a summer’s worth of profits. For many restaurants, that can be a death sentence. For those of us who are denied good eats and entertainment at our favorite establishments, it is merely a tedious bore.

Many of the Beijing residents most affected are not actually “Beijingers” at all, but the fifth of the population of the capital that is made up of migrant workers, who have lost their livelihood as construction sites have shut down in July to clear the air for August (which, I must say, is a pleasant development for the rest of us) as well as hundreds of small dives, noodle shops and BBQ stands that feed them. Many have returned to the countryside, likely in keeping with unstated government objectives.

Most recently felt by all Beijing residents are the invasive security measures. Everyone must undergo security checks when getting on the subway, including bag checks and occasional body checks. Intercity rail transport is purportedly even worse. Fully armed SWAT teams are now visible throughout the city. Tank-like vehicles are showing up underneath major flyovers on the ring roads. For the first time in over five years, I have seen helicopters over Beijing skies! While these measures are understandable in light of genuine security issues, it is still burdensome for Beijing residents who couldn’t care less about the games.

Security measures are encroaching upon the lives of ordinary Beijing citizens in surprising ways. I have heard one account that all teachers for a certain university have been told that they must report to their campus every day throughout the Olympics just “in case” something happens, so that they will be available to offer assistance. I’m not sure how many universities this affects, but I can just imagine what my reaction would be if someone told me that I had to give up my hard-earned summer vacation to sit in an office doing nothing just “in case” something happens!!

Beijing-based artist Ai Weiwei, co-designer of the “Bird’s Nest” Olympic stadium eloquently summed up the angst felt by many Beijingers in a blog post that was subsequently translated by China Digital Times.

An Olympics far from the will of the people and the spirit of freedom, a national ceremony without the inspiration of the citizenry, a myth so far away from modern civilization, the end result will be endless nonsense and a bore. The reason is simple: In this world no autocracy can pretend to be the joy of democracy, nor can it masquerade as harmony and happiness. No one can win the people’s support through deceit and betrayal.

“One World” — What world? No democracy, no human rights, no justice or equality, only deceit and betrayal.
“One Dream” — What dream? More corrupt officials, more shady deals, continued lies and questionable prosperity.